English
explanation- Oooom
Piet-
where-when-why-how-what
Oooom
Piet- a charity or what? what about the foundation behind it?
Oooom Piet at this point is mostly this site, with stories, opinions, pictures,
and its over-abundant stock, stored at the Jaffe-Klusman home in Leiden. Lexa
Jaffe-Klusman, the founding mother, used to fill two containers a year and then
get lots of people to help her sell Oooom Piet's special imports from Indonesia
in Holland. It concerned mostly handcrafted products, and Oooom Piet became a
very active branch of the "16 september stichting". It grew so much
that Lexa ahd to admit it had become too big for its and her own good. End of
2009 the Leiden shop, Oooom Piet's Tempat, closed. Spring 2010 Oooom Piet
for the last time had a stand with multiple booths and a lot of kites hanging
over them at the big Eurasian event in The Hague, the Tong Tong Fair. An annual
get-together, kumpulan, of large numbers of people with their roots in
the colonial Dutch East Indies, or with an interest in Indonesia. Right now
ni9neLives, the 16 september stichting's latest incarnation, is taking
over many of Oooom Piet's activities, including some sales and school activities.
We are working hard on making it possible to buy our special-design silver jewelry,
our wayang, batik, kebaya's, silk cocoons, handmade paper and other artist's
materials and so much more. We are also involved in workshops for highschool students But
there is so much stock left from when Oooom Piet had its own shop and participated
in big fairs- and imported two chock-full containers a year- that our house is
more like a warehouse than a showroom. Once we are ready with our clean-up, we'll
also try and arrange jewelry making workshops at our home with sterling silver
and semi-precious beads ni9neLives is also involved in workshops for a
special type of Fashion Show, and it is working on a children's program on Nusa
Penida, called Pay4Play. Click here
to surf to this bilingual site and find out more. The 16 September Foundation
is a small family foundation which was started in 1994 with its "16 september
pers" in order to publish "Bevrijdingsdag", by Wil Mannesse. This
is a short novel-of-ideas about the days Heerlen, a small city in the Southern
part of the Netherlands, was liberated and the idea of freedom in many guises.
In September 1944, long months before the rest of the country shook off German
occupation, the Allied Forces took over that region- nearly a year before the
Japanese were defeated in South East Asia. what about the family behind
the foundation? the influence of the Second World War in South East AsiaThe
16 September Foundation in its statutes says it tries to approach misery, illness
and death in playful and creative ways. 16 September is a family birthdate- and
the family name Alexander-Alexa lives on through Lexa Jaffe-Klusman, his grandchild
from Bandung, now in Leiden, and two of the original Alexander Nicolaas Klusman's
great-grandchildren in Amsterdam, but born in Zambia, and in Salem, USA. Moving
from one continent to another, because of either jobs or a spouse, seems part
of the family adat- customary behavior. The family moved to Holland after
the second World War. Mieneke Klusman-James had four young children when husband
Jean Klusman was taken prisoner and spent four years as a POW in Japan. The practice
area in the house was empty now that doctor Klusman was gone, and Mieneke used
the available rooms to house other women who were of Eurasian descent and not
forced into camps by the Japanese. They also had young children and it helped
to keep the military from confiscating the house that the house was old. The communal
housing of course was also an expression of solidarity- the families had each
other even with the men gone. Mieneke made dresses for her little daughters from
tablecloths and traded goods goods for food with the local population. Cotton
sheets, highly valued as they could be made into batik sarung, for fresh
vegetables, needed for their vitamins and minerals. When Oooom Piet was created,
the initiator of the foundation, Lexa Jaffe-Klusman, had Mieneke Klusman very
much in mind. She knew her mother, who had in a way travelled along with Lexa
on her 1996 trip to their native country. When hearing the stories about how Lexa
and her daughter Jenny had stayed with a Balinese family she claimed to be jealous
of this new way of interacting with local Indonesians. Mieneke had not enjoyed
the barrier between her, a woman with mixed colonial-native ancestry, and the
so-called inlanders, the natives. Mieneke had changed a lot
since the times she still referred to Indonesia as 'the Indies', as a loyal member
of her colonial family. She had told Lexa stories of racism and discrimination
during colonial times, but Lexa was still shocked to hear Indonesians refer to
the colonial period as the 'Dutch occupation'. But then again, her own family
called Sukarno a 'collaborator with the Japanese', an equally correct but unpleasant
way of describing someone known by Indonesians as the freedom fighter he also
was. All members of the Klusman-James family survived WW II, Indonesia gained
reognition as an independent nation. But the struggle for independence right after
was gruesome and left many scars. a post-colonial Indisch meisje,
a girl from the Indies, in IndonesiaThe Klusman-James family left for
the Netherlands in early 1946 and learned to live without servants, in a cold
climate. 50 years later, when Lexa finally went back to Bandung, she went as the
wife of an American Jewish astronomer, and their youngest daughter came along.
Walter's offer to do some teaching during their vacation was graciously accepted
by the director of the Observatory of Lembang, close byBandung. Lexa and her high
school-age daughter were treated as family guests by the Director and his two
sons. Their hospitality was not hampered at all by the fact that this same astronomy
professor's father had fought for independence from the Dutch during the ugly
years of 1939-1949. The Indonesian professor actually owns an impressive collection
of books and documents having to do with Dutch-Indonesian relations during this
period and has studied what was written about it by both sides. Lexa has found
most Indonesians are very open to friendship with a woman with a colonial background.
She tries to avoid the traps of neo-colonialism and from the start has been eager
to learn to communicate in their language. Indonesians also seem to enjoy
her eagerness to experience their way of life and their regular home-cooked meals.
They have often let her stay at their homes- at times having to overcome embarassment,
at times greatly amused by a Westerner's different ways of doing things. They
found it hard to believe Oooom Piet is really not after financial profits, but
always appreciated Lexa as a purchaser to share money and responsibility when
purchasing goods for Oooom Piet which would not necessarily sell easily. As she
got to know people more intimately she found many shared her dislike of the condescension
often connected to charity. Having money in relative abundance remains a problem.
Ah well- we have to accept limitations- even if that is hard! Oooom Piet tries
to help as one helps family members or good friends, not giving handouts to people
one pities. We try to show respect for our suppliers by letting them know we appreciate
what they sell, which is often what they themselves or their friends have made
by hand. We can bargain with the best of them- mostly simply by making it cear
we can sell much more if the price is lower, sometimes by making it clear we are
insulted if they think we do not know the local price. Our knowing Bahsa Indonesia
helps, our being able to spout a few words of Balinese impresses. Only some people
realise we sometimes by deliberately overpay when we find someone badly needs
money and has few marketable skills. By doing business with people and letting
them supply goods, they can feel absolutely free to use the money they get whichever
way they see fit. If someone is ill or needs school fees it is likely that it
will be used to pay for medical care or education. But we have often only understood
their priorities after the fact. Different social and religious structures make
it difficult to understand people's needs. Who would have thought that the large
sum needed for a tooth filing ceremony or for having a ngaben, a ritual
cremation, now rather than wait for the cheaper group cremation, is felt
to be the most urgent need? We ourselves, after more than a decade of intimate
contact with people on Hindu Bali, were surprised, but very happy that the loving
daughter had felt free to spend her hard-earned money this way, so her mother
need not stay under ground and have to dwell with the netherworld's demons any
longer. We don't like the term 'Dutch occupation', but the colonial period
was certainly a period of racism and unfairness, with power and money firmly clung
to, if need be through military violence, by a small Dutch minority and their
government in far-away Holland. Discrimination was made into a fine art. In my
family we call that 'counting the droplets'. Not only the color of one's skin,
also the thickness of one's accent in Dutch, the exact level of one's education
and occupation were counted. People who were more obviously of mixed blood got
half the wages of so-called totoks, purebred Dutch. Race is a social construct-
but a construct that has many tangible consequences, to this very day. Oooom
Piet- a non-profit family business "Oom" is Dutch for uncle,
and Lexa inherited the starting capital for the Oooom Piet import business from
her real oom Piet, her mother's brother. It started in 1997 with a small stand
at the Tong Tong Fair in The Hague, then still called the Pasar Malam Besar. That
fair is a kind of kumpulan, a big annual get-together of people with roots
in the Indies-Indonesia, and of those somehow interested in that country. Oooom
Piet fitted right in with the other stands at the Tong Tong's Indonesia Pavillion.
But it also stood out- people stopped to count the number of O's in our name and
the colorful Balinese kites drew many customers- as did, even that very first
year, our specially designed earrings with small fan coral picked up on the beach.
And the bebek rice spoon- a replica of the duck spoon Lexa's mother, Mieneke,
got from her and oom Piet's brother Frits who brought it from Bali in 1949. Lexa
also has a little wood-carved deer he bought there for her, and she remembers
his green Indonesian coffee beans being roasted in a frying pan- a real treat
in post-war Holland. Objects carry histories, and people often have told us
Oooom Piet sells stories almost as much as it sells objects. We have learned to
call this 'material culture'. In 2008 Rosanne, a major in visual cultural anthropology
at Leiden University, made an in-depth portrait of Oooom Piet and his niece as
an example of material culture. If you want to hold on to your roots it is nice
to have objects that connect you with your country of origin. Her documentary
shows how many customers come and water their roots by buying a creepy-crawly
toy for their children or grand-children, or honor their ancestors by having traditional
Indonesian clothes sewn for their wedding, putting some traditional Indonesian
objects on a coffin. We had Indonesian helpers and Dutch friends and quite
a few relatives who, as it should be in an Indies family, of course supported
Lexa's family business, even if it meant coming from the U.S. and working hard
at the Pasar, market or fair, instead of having a relaxing vacation. Our
second year Vinni, 'just a friend we met in Bali' came from Denmark especially
for the Pasar, and in 2001 she even brought her parents along- wonderful helpers
all of them. In 2009 we even had a daughter's friend's husband from Cameroon getting
his first impression of Holland as a worker for Oooom Piet at the Tong Tong Fair.
Quite a few members of the Oooom Piet family keep in touch- live or on facebook-
even though Oooom Piet no longer needs helpers since for the shop and the big
fair. Oooom Piet- cut back to size, but full of plans for the futureThe
Oooom of Oooom Piet is really the mantra aum which is frequently
heard at temple ceremonies on Hindu Bali, where we have our Indonesian headquarters.
It stands for destruction- rebirth- and protection of new life. Oooom Piet
is based in Leiden, and In 2001 we opened our own little shop there, meant to
be a haven for people uprooted in the late '40-s or in the '50-s or even '60-s,
after the colonial era had ended. When we closed the Mom and Dad style corner
store at the end of 2009, almost eactly 8 years later, we were touched by how
many customers tried to help us by buying as much as possible during the three
months of our fall clearance. Many kind words were spoken. Stories were shared
of little children on their very first independent shopping trip to the 'little
shop on the corner'. A tiny boy and his mother walked home to get the rolls of
small coins he had saved, wrapped in newspaper, to buy something himself
at the special piggy-bank discount.. Some children drove their mother or father
to despair because they could not get the child to say what he or she wanted.
First every single mysterious or just colorful or even scary item in the shop
had to be seen and touched. Because at Oooom Piet's you were often told to
please look with your hands. How else do you know how a creepy-crawly moves or
a bamboo spinning top sings? Scent is important too-
many people commented on how they felt transported to our communal native country,
or to the time spent in Indonesia as tourists or ex-pats, by the scents of cloves
and akar wangi- scented root- and more, that met them when they entered.
When she planned the closing Fall Sales in 2009 Lexa felt a deep desire to for
once be able to show off Oooom Piet's imports in style. Space was created for
the Bali boxes, batik and ikat and other beautiful materials,the
battery-free handmade toys and masks, the specially designed silver jewelry, the
children's clothes by splitting them up into categories. Two weeks for each category
to be shown in its full glory. Lexa herself and wheel chair clients, as well as
mothers with children in buggies, enjoyed the space, but most customers protested
strongly and kept asking for items not on display. They had gotten quite comfortable
with hardly being able to move without knocking something over. They were not
just tolerating the seeming chaos- it apparently made them feel good to browse
and pick up items and go on a kind of discovery trip in this overcrowded little
world of its own. Oooom Piet in Indonesia and Komang's
pondok- a special homestaySo the shop is closed. And the
Oooom Piet stand at the big Eurasian Tong Tong Fair was the last one. Only the
djaits, the sewing stand where Cok reigned from behind her treadle machine,
probably return in 2011. But Lexa does want to go back to Indonesia, where
she was born and where she has rooted again after a leave-of-absence of almost
exactly 50 years fom the country where she was born. She likes the mountains and
the animals, flowers and trees. She enjoys the children and the food, but mostly
she is happy to know she has friends there, friends who are almost family. So
she is not done yet with Indonesia. People We have many plans for projects in
Indonesia and will use the money from selling off our stock to get those projects
started. in other countries also make beautiful and funny things. Lexa is very
impressed with the handicrafts of Vietnam. She really enjoyed the friendliness
and sense of humor of some very resilient people, who survive by making and selling
beautiful embroidery and handicrafts. And then there is Komangs Pondok
Mimpi- a dream cottage indeed. Not just Oooom Piet's purchaser Lexa, also
a number of members of the extended Oooom Piet family have been made to feel very
much at home in a tiny village in the middle of tourist trap Bali. Belahpane Kaja
is a place most Balinese even don't know where to find, but Komang has used the
money he made during his seven times here in Holland= to build a wonderful house
looking out over terraced sawah's, ricefields. This is not just for himself
and his wife and son, it was always meant to accommodate a few guests at a time.
They are welcome to stay at Komang and Astiti's home, learn how to play the bamboo
rindik, paint the beautiful flowers Komang loves to grow or just r-e-l-a-x
and feel warmly welcome. You can also ask Komang to take you on trips- Komang
has been a chauffeur and guide for many years. but when tourism dried up after
the turbulent fall of the Suharto regime and later the Bali bombings and other
perceived or real trouble he looked for other sources of income and even sold
his car. A great loss to the family, as Komang could always be depended on to
drive a sick family member to the hospital when needed. By building the house
he not only invested his European wages wisely- he also shared the money with
friends and family who helped him build it. There is much for us to learn from
a society where granny and grandpa from the mountains are brought home to spend
their last years where they grew up and to be cared for by family, rather than
being left to professionals. In our Western world many old people spend long
years not so cosily together in god's waiting-room- with relatives rarely there,
pets not allowed. At Komang's old family compound, right next to where he built
his new house, there are not just old people, one also shares the yard with babies
and chickens- and many friends and relations always drop in. There is lots of
tea and coffee and banter. Relatives are giving each other a pijit- a massage,
when someone has a headache or sore joints. The women are using their quieter
moments to make offerings and sweets for the many many temple ceremonies. Grandparents
are responsible for keeping the little children from being unhappy. Older children
are lugging around their baby siblings and neighbors It is a good place to
be and we think of it as our home in Bali. If you'd like us to connect you
up with Komang in Bali, just send a mail with your info. religion
as reality- notes from an agnosticOften the local priest's temple bell
summons people to the sanggah, the Hindu house temple, for a special home
ceremony. It is a reminder to put on sarung and kebaya, the pakaian
adat or traditional clothes that express respect for the religious aspect
of what is often mostly a social affair. At the end Lexa also gets an extra sprinkle
of holy water, tirta, and some extra biji, grains of rice- because
the regular priest knows she has trouble making the rice stick to her forehead.
In Kota Gede in Middle Java much about the social set-up is the same in the kampung,
the living quarters we stay in. But there Lexa- oh well- let's just say "I"
and start over: I live with Muslims there and have learned to enjoy a number
of Ramadan customs. When Wafiq invited me to break the fast at the neighborhood
mesjid I borrowed a scarf from his wife Ifa. The mosque is temporarily
housed in a school building, as the old mosque is still in the process of being
renovated after the 2006 earthquake that did so much harm in the Jogjakarta area.
The women had cooked enough for everyone and I was warmly welcomed by young and
old. Many salamaleikums came my way. And yes, please take more pictures-
what about me and my baby son? I have clearly pleased people, even highly educated
and not-so-strict muslims, by making the gesture of fasting along with them for
a few days. At earlier Ramadan fasts, even in East Lombok, home to many extremists,
I was never pushed into participating. I was just treated to tea or coffee and
a snack because "We have them ready for after breaking the fast tounight,
but you don't need to fast now!" I was invited over a number of times,
even though I had had regular food all day, for the festive breaking of their
fast with special drinks and fruit, and dishes prepared with special care. I was
curious about the experience of fasting and it turned out to be rather easy- as
long as you manage to get up at 4 a.m. to drink and eat enough then to last you
for a while. I witnessed a deeper dislike of terrorism amongst my Balinese
and Javanese friends and acquaintances than one might perhaps expect in a predominantly
muslim country. Muslim panatik is not what most Indonesians think highly
off. Tolerance and forgiveness come much more naturally to them, even if they
feel deeply hurt by cartoons not showing due respect for their prophet Muhammed.
They are embarassed by their fanatically violent countrymen and feel they give
non-believers the wrong idea about their faith. Our deeply religious and always
somewhat rebellious younger friend Herry Lahamid, who lives in Holland with her
Dutch husband and their little son, only started wearing a head scarf recently.
She claims this is because of what the Koran tells her, but we suspect she also
wants to show people that there are Muslims and Muslims. Only recently have Herry
and I felt we had to make a statement about something we used to take for granted.
We used to feel religious beliefs were a private matter. It is a bit like my late
friend Mr. Loose, an art historian who wrote his thesis on the wood carvings on
choir benches in German Roman Catholic churches. But after Hitler had made being
Jewish like a curse and he had to flee to The Hague, he went to the nearest synagogue
and registered as a Jew. So much for that. some of our plans and projectWe
also have some more practical and direct worries. We worry about the money needed
to send smart and hard-working kids to high school or perhaps beyond. An extremely
intelligent Indonesian girl I know was very lucky and got scholarships and is
now at university- to be a doctor, according to her proud and loving uncle. She
herself told me: "No Lexa- I'm just going to be a midwife." Oh well-
she will no doubt be a very good one. But what about less practical but equally
intelligent kids? It is really good to hear about the much higher wages teachers
are paid in Indonesia these days. I used to do some teaching there myself and
was shocked at the low standards, but in September 2009 I visited a grade school
on Nusa Penida where I felt things have gotten much better. But stiil- spring
of 2009 on Flores one smart little boy had to stay home from school until the
stores opened. His new shoes, just bought with the money his father had gotten
for driving us around were too small. His old ones had been tossed. And you are
not allowed to enter school on flip-flops- they have to be those expensive shoes.
Another problem can be the distance to the nearest school. If Mommy has no moped
and Daddy is gone very early every morning in his truck, it is hard for an eager
5-year old to go to kindergarten. Too far to walk, too expensive and too tricky
to go by bus at that age. So we are dreaming of little pre-school programs which
will combine generating some money and helping kids with low-income parents acquire
pre-school-learning.Tteaching letter recognition and some basic Indonesian through
songs and some number and general skills. For older children we are thinking of
English songs- letting the caretakers use cd's and picture books so that spelling
is connected with that illogical pronunciation that is so hard to master for Indonesians. We
like giving our products and projects names. So our recycling project we are calling
"9 Lives", and our Child Labor project we have already named Pay for
Play- a name which is a challenge for Balinese- grown-ups as well as children.
F- and p-sounds are one sound to Indonesian ears as it makes no difference to
the meaning of Indonesian words whether you use one or the other. We
know that for teenagers finding paying work is often the only option, and we have
seen how that work can be a rather fun thing to do for young boys when they have
no way of going to school in any case. Uniforms and books are too expensive- feeding
them is already a problem for parents, and they usually go to a work place as
a group, all from the same poor village. But these days there is often just
no work to be found. We find sit-down toilets and an enclosed wash area quite
practical. But we remember clearly- and feel somewhat nostalgic about- the kind
of camping-out feeling we used to have in the late 1990-s, when we first stayed
with local people in our native Indonesia. At that time a hole in the ground and
a public mountain stream and thatch roofs and no tiles still were the norm on
Bali- leave alone poorer islands. For us the esthetic pleasure compensated for
body comforts, but now that our bones are stiffer we are more accepting of all
these new-fangled 'improvements' that we used to abhor as taking the authenticity
away and ruining the ecology. Wood-burning fires are once again used a lot- the
economic crisis and the rise of fuel prices made the choice easy. But actually
modern solar panels would probably be environmentally better. So during the
first trip there in a long time during which we needn't feel pressured by having
to fill and ship a container- with goods not really needed since both our shop
and our house were cluttered with all Oooom Piets abundant stock- during this
brief but very full trip we felt very liberated. We could go back to spending
time with children and thinking up ways of recycling packaging and stimulating
self-help. We bought wares from an old lady who had never learned to write but
knew very well how to add without the use of a calculator. She runs a corner store
meant for her own neighbors, rather than the places we had gone to recently. All
so as to be economic and efficient we had been buying large quantities from big
shops with cell phones and computers and other practical tools- but without the
pleasant scent of the good -?- old days. Tong Tong Fair- the former Pasar
Malam Besar- even without Oooom Piet: worth a detour -or even a special trip!
25 May-5 June 2011, Malieveld, very close to Station Centraal, The HagueThe
former Pasar Malam Besar, now called Tong Tong Fair, is where Oooom Piet started
in 1997 and came to full bloom. Oooom Piet has not just closed its little shop-
2010 was its last year at the Tong Tong Fair. We shall miss all the excitement
and all the customers who got to be friends. But one has to make choices. However-
our djaits, seamstresses, will probably still be at their treadle machines
to make you a traditional kebaya blouse or your own design garment from
our wide selection of Indonesian traditional and modern materials. This Eurasian
fair is not just multi-cultural but also multi-faceted. The Grand Pasar offers
shopping as a kind of world travel experience- with great bargains! Many people
just come to shop or to enjoy the wide variety of sweet or spicy Indonesian snacks
and food. At the Cooking Theatre you can learn how to cook Indonesian dishes yourself.
Others come for the music and dancing, or the lectures, theater and workshops:
the Tong Tong Festival. If you like to try and play gamelan music, or make
batik or play traditional Indies children's games or make and fly kites-
the Bengkel offers a wide variety of workshops. But perhaps best of
all- you get a chance to be part of a huge Eurasian kumpulan, a grand annual
reunion of people with roots in the Indies or an interest in Indonesia. Click
here to go to the very good site of the
Tong Tong Fair itself. You will be able to see what this great Eurasian festival
is like. Many visitors are amateur videographers, and show what you come across
when just jalan-jalan, walking around. Professionals have made some excellent
video films especially of the best music and dance shows at the Tong Tong Festival-
there are a number of theaters at the fair.You can surf the web for hours listening
to slack guitar or the Indies singing called keroncong. Or if you like
dance you will get to experience quite exciting performances. I myself found Sekala-
Niskala very inspiring. It is an experimental choreography expressing themes
from faith and religion by blending top quality traditional Balinese dance and
gamelan with modern Western ballet. You can also get an English version
of the site.. what we sell and where- the net, home and fairswhen
it concerns orders from outside the Netherlands, but sabar aja!, wait and
see, be patient. The favorite expression of Indies and Indonesian people is plan-plan-
slowly-slowly, so don't hold your breath! But at least there will soon be
a place where one can see many of our wares systematically ordered, priced and
clearly described. Many products have been made specially for Oooom Piet, with
an emphasis on natural materials and traditional techniques. For now we shall
try to tell some more right here and now about the items we have and sell. See
below. If you want to visit and browse at our home- please let us know by
mail or text us and we'll tell you when is a good time for us. You may also try
to reach us by phone, but we have found. that does not always work We will
announce special days for home sales, Silver Sundays and a variety of workshops
when we have managed to empty our spacious home a bit after selling off of our
surplus stock at the Textile Festival in Leiden end of March, perhaps at the Orchid
Fair at the Botannical Gardens in Leiden as well, beginning of April, and of course
at the Tong Tong Fair in May. Cok will be staying with us for a while before
and after the Tong Tong Fair, where she will be sewing kebaya's once more, and
we are planning on some shop/cook/eat workshops with her in our kitchen as well. Please
check our site for updates or mail us if you want to be told about these events
and shopping occasions by receiving mail about them. textiles- batik,
ikat, songket- and other special fabricsWe are proud of
all the different kinds of handmade fabrics we have been selling for years now.
We try and support the art of batik and ikat-making by buying beatiful
pieces of these cloths that may have been meant to wear but are such a pity to
cut up and sew with. So we sell our best pieces of ikat, from Sumba, as
well as the most exclusive kinds of handmade batik, as wall hangings.
But we also sell pillows and pillowcases, bed covers, albums, boxes and books
using batik- mostly prints- and other special fabrics. Of course we have clothes
made with them as well, which we think of as 'timeless fashion': clothes for all
ages and sizes, from tiny baby to XXXL. Next to our own designs we enjoy selling
the standard kain panjang and sarung, the wrap-around and tube skirts
still worn all over Indonesia. More and more often the generation born in Holland
but with roots in Indonesia like to wear these. The women combine the traditional
batik skirt with the equally traditional kebaya, both off the pasar-rack
and made-to-order at our stand at the Pasar Malam Besar, the annual fair in the
Hague. The men are a bit more hesitant about the batik or lurik skirts,
but often come specially for the great variety of batik shirts that are
also very popular with modern Indonesians. For those new to Indonesian textiles
we'd like to share some of what we know about their background and the techniques.
We are not true experts, but over the years we have learned quite a bit, especially
when visiting the makers- not only weavers,also dyers, people who stamp the batik
or write it with a pen-like funnel, people who tie offf the yarn for an ikat.
And then there are salespeople and books. First of all batik, cloth
decorated with the wax resist method, both tulis, 'written' batik,
and cap, where copper stamps are used to apply the wax. We have
batik from Yogyakarta and Imogiri and Solo, on central Java, as well as
from Java's north coast: Cirebon, Pekalongan, Lasem, and Tuban. Tuban is distinctly
different, as they apply the wax to handwoven cloth made with handspun cotton,
as opposed to the high percale cotton used elsewhere. We especially like
batik Madura, from the island to the north east of Java where we briefly
stayed with an extended family of batik makers. On Madura the dyes are brushed
on rather than soaking the cloth in one or more consecutive dye baths. This technique
is also used for Bali batik, known for its bright colors and bold designs. We
have kimono's and bed covers made with this batik tulis, that is to say
that the big flowers are painted on by hand with a canting, a funnel for
the hot wax. We also have batik cap Bali, with the wax applied by a copper
batik stamp- animals and other small motifs. We use this batik for children's
clothes. -ikat, cloth with the yarn tied and dyed before weaving, so
that the pattern is already visible once the yarn is on the loom. Often a body
tension loom, so the weaver has close control. We have big hinggi from
Sumba, sold as wall hangings, and selendang, scarves, and sarung, tube
skirts, from Flores. In Tenganan on Bali they have double ikat, called endek
gerinsing, used for special ceremonies. Very few pieces can be made as the
dyiing process is at least as time consuming as the tying of the yarn. But we
try and buy one piece each purchase trip. In Tanglad on Nusa Penida, island
off the shore of Bali, they make cepok, which is also a ceremonial cloth.
On Bali they have one word for 'handwoven' and 'ikat', ndek. As they
do on Java, where the word islurik, a cloth used for men's sarung,
tube skirts, and the traditional striped jackets still worn in the Sultan's palace.
Much ndek and lurik has stripes woven into the fabric using the
ikat technique. The word ikat means 'to tie'- in this case the yarn
for the weft, on Sumba they make warp ikat. -pucuk rebung,
made by crossing two shutlles with different color yarns to make a pattern of
bamboo shoots, and more special techniques from the weavers of Pringgasela, in
east Lombok. Reminiscent of tecniques used on Timor. -supplementary weave
using silver or gold yarn from near Bukittinggi on Sumatra and Gelgel on Bali-
as with gerinsing: not always available. wayang- shadow and stick
puppets- and topeng- masks-wayang golek, stick puppets with carved
heads and 'real' clothes -wayang kulit, leather shadow puppets, very
refined puppets with the gods and other characters from the Ramayana stories,
and other puppets, both animals and common folk, needed to tell the stories of
Kancil. Kancil is the Indonesian version of Brer Rabbit crossed with Robin Hood:
a clever and naughty little deer that outsmarts everyone, even tigers and crocodiles.
If you want to see a full set: the children's museum of the KIT in Amsterdam let
us buy them for them from Pak Ledjar in Yogya, one of the very few dalang,
puppeteers who specialises in wayang kancil. -wayang kulit
by the late Balinese dalang Ketut Klinik and by his nephew. -just to show
the difference we also have some puppets made of paper, goat leather or wood.
We are still hoping to import wayang rumput, puppets made with straw,
which young cowherds make in the fields, and which are now used in modern, experimental
dance theater by Ki Slamet in Solo -painted wooden masks, such as used for
wayang topeng, mask theater, or wayang wong', people theater, used in mask
dancing by the dalang himself. -Balinese masks: both unpainted and painted
frog and 'barong' masks -paper masks to put your whole head into- or to use
as decoration jewelryWe have gold- a little, and gold plated temple
jewelry from Bali, and silver- a lot!, and super-cheap costume jewelry as used
by dancers. As well as bracelets and necklaces with coconut shell and other cheap
materials, especially for the younger crowd. We are well-known for our brooches
in animal shapes and for our large selection of filigree, a lace-like Yogya specialty.
We also enjoy selling a special kind of pendant, blandong, little boxes
meant to ward off evil by letting the baby wear one filled with a piece of its
own umbilical cord- although in the Western world seen as the perfect new-mother
gift- and another Bali baby gift: anklets with little bells. Many of our earrings,
rings, bracelets, necklaces and hangers we design ourselves, in collaboration
with the silversmiths of Bali and Yogya. We have a weakness for semi-precious
stones and amber and simple shapes. The stones and beads we buy from Indian and
Afghan colleagues at the Pasar Malam Besar, the big fair in the Hague, or at the
Pasar Burung, the bird market on Bali. We also sell hooks to make your own
earrings, string, wire and silver locks, as well as strings of sweet water pearls,
agath and mystery materials from the sea and beads of sterling silver, coconut,
bamboo, bone, and other materials. toysWhen we had just started
some people thought we were a kite shop. We still sell both fighting kites and
glasan, the special cutting string needed to bring your opponent's kite
down. But we specialise in Balinese kites, hand-made of parachute nylon on
bamboo frames, waterproof (except for the glued-on details). Some easier to fly
than others, all very decorative. If you hang them outdoors, but don't want them
to fly, tie them securely! We have toddler push toys and colorful animals
on a string, singing spinning tops, noisemakers, mini pots, pans, dollhouse furniture.
Many are made with recycled materials- cans, old exercise books, plastic cups. books,
boxes, cards and paper- and materials for arts and craftsAt Komang's home
in Belahpane family and helpers make books, albums and picture frames with bean
pods, banana bark and leaves and sand, and with our special textiles. In
Ubud we buy reams of handmade rice chaff paper and strong paper with pineapple
and bamboo fibres. In Yogya we buy golden silk cocoons and a kind of parchment-like
sheets made with those cocoons. Shredded these cocoons are meant to be used by
paper makers- but we hope they will inspire many other uses. We sell lontar palm
leaves which we have used here in classroom projects. From Sulawesi we have just
imported big sheets of tapas, beaten treebark, a favorite with felt makers.
At the Book Art Fair in Leiden people count on us for the little sheets of pure
copper and for other natural materials which can be used in arts and crafts or
simply as decoration. what DON'T we sell?We could go on and on-
but let's just list some of what hasn't been mentioned yet: -wood-carved
animals- cecak, lizards, monkeys, bats and other creatures -cutting
boards, serving spoons and forks specially designed and carved for us in Pejeng,
Bali by Komang Wir -temple decorations as used in Hindu temples, such as offering
standards and boxes, vanes, curtains and borders stencilled or painted with prada,
gold. -kitchen utensils: stone mortar and pestles, bamboo and wooden ladles,
huge steel wajan, the Indonesian type wok, sateh grills and fans,
teapots, kettles, coconut graters, knives. Oil lamps, dry-season-baby-showers,
shoemakers needles and yarn. |